OC-MRUF 


hardening 


in 


Southern 
California 

By  H.  E«  Sies 


GIFT  OF 


A? 

>v  :•*** 


Gardening 

Southern 
California 

BY 
H.  E.  SIES 

SAN  DIEGO,  CALIFORNIA 


Price,  50  Cents 


Copyright  1918 
By  H.  E.  Sies,  San  Diego,  California 


Hart,  331  F  San  Diego 


Read  This  First 


In  Southern  California,  soil  conditions  are  so  varied, 
that  there  can  be  no  set  rule  for  its  preparation  any 
further  than  the  use  of  decomposed  vegetation,  cow 
and  horse  manure  will  apply  everywhere. 

Most  chemical  fertilizers  in  time  leave  the  soil  in 
an  impoverished  condition. 

The  various  fertilizers  that  will  be  mentioned  in 
this  booklet,  are  soil  builders  to  a  more  or  less  degree. 

Your  own  experience  must  determine  the  one  or 
ones  best  suited  for  your  use. 

The  writer  will  adhere  strictly  to  the  planting  and 
growing  conditions  for  Southern  California,  as  they 
apply  to  city  homes,  and  in  compiling  this  booklet 
has  only  one  aim  and  thought  in  mind.  That  is  to 
endeavor  to  place  before  its  readers  in  as  plain  and 
clear  a  manner  as  possible  how  to  prepare  the  soil  and 
succeed  in  the  growing  of  those  things  the  most  uni- 
versally sought  for. 

If  he  has  succeeded  in  placing  the  subject  matter 
in  a  way  that  the  reader  gets  the  full  value  out  of  it, 
he  will  feel  that  success  has  crowned  his  efforts. 

By  earnest  and  diligent  application  of  knowledge 
acquired  only  do  we  succeed.  So  in  the  degree  that 
you  set  yourself  about  the  task  of  getting  into  har- 
mony with  nature  and  nature's  ways  and  wonders, 
will  you  have  the  satisfaction  of  realizing  to  the  fullest 
extent  what  a  sublime  builder  of  mind,  body  and  char- 
acter she  is. 


3951^0 


Calendar  for  Vegetable  Garden 

Sowing  Seed  and  Planting  Out 
Vegetables  in  Following  Months 


JANUARY  AND  FEBRUARY 

SOW—                       Kale  Peas 

Beets                            Lettuce  Radishes 

Carrots                         Onion  Spinach 

Early  Cabbage          Parsnip  Turnip 

PLANT—                   Potatoes  Cabbage 

MARCH 
In  addition  to  list  for  January  and  February  add: 

SOW- 
Late  Cabbage            Cucumber  Tomatoes 
Sweet  Corn                Musk  Melon  Watermelon 
Egg  Plant                  Squash  Beans 

PLANT—                   Cabbage  Tomatoe 

APRIL 

Sow  seed  and  plant  same  as  for  March  with  following  ad- 
ditions : 

Pepper    plants    and    seed  Egg  Plant  and  Seed 

MAY 
Sow  seed  same  as  for  foregoing  months. 

PLANT—                   Egg  Plant  Tomatoe 

Cabbage                      Pepper  Sweet  Potatoes 

JUNE 
SOW- 
Beans                           Lettuce  Pepper 
Beets                             Musk  Melon  Pumpkin 
Cucumber                    Onion  Radish 
Sweet  Corn                 Parsnip  Squash 
Egg  Plant                  Peas  Watermelon 

PLANT— 

Same  as  for  May. 


JULY 

SOW- 
Beans  Onion  Radish 
Beets                           Pumpkin  Summer    Squash 
Lettuce 

PLANT—  Cabbage  Cauliflower 

AUGUST 
SOW- 
Beans  Kale  Peas 
Beets                           Lettuce  Radish 
Early  Cabbage          Onion  Tomatoes  * 
Cauliflower 

*For  winter  crop  in  frostless  sections. 
PLANT—  Potatoes 

SEPTEMBER 

SOW — Same  as  for  August  with  addition  of  Parsnips. 
PLANT—  Potatoes 

OCTOBER 

Same  as  for  August  with  exception  of  omitting  Tomatoes. 

NOVEMBER  AND  DECEMBER 
Same  as  for  October. 


You  can  sow  every  month  in  the  year: 

leets  Lettuce 

'arrots  Radish 

Plant  Onion  sets  all  year  round. 


Beets  Lettuce  Turnips 

Carrots  Radish 


Calendar  for  Flower  Garden 

Sowing  Seed  and  Planting  Out 
Flowers  in  the  Following  Months 


JANUARY  AND  FEBRUARY 

SOW —  Centaurea,    or  Larkspur 

Alyssum  Wall  Flower  Migonette 

Calliopsis  Cosmos  Poppies 

Candytuft  Gaillardia  Sweet  Peas 

MARCH 

Sow  same  as  above  with  following  additions: 
Aster  Dahlia  Zinnia 

APRIL 

Sow  same  as  for  preceeding  months  with  following  addi- 
tions : 

Morning  Glory          Shasta  Daisy  Discontinue    Sweet 

Cypress   Vine  Verbena  Peas 

Marigold  Wall  Flower 

MAY 
Sow  same  as  for  preceeding  months. 

PLANT— 

Dahlia  Bulbs  Chrysantheurn  Pentstemon 

Aster  Zinnia  Salvia  Plants 

JUNE 

Discontinue  seed-sowing. 
Plant  same  as  for  May. 


JULY 

Discontinue  seed-sowing. 

AUGUST 

SOW- 
Cmeraria  Stocks  Christmas  flowering 
Pansy                           Snap  Dragon  Sweet  Peas 

SEPTEMBER 
Sow  same  as  for  August  with  addition  of  Shasta  Daisy. 

OCTOBER 

SOW—  California  Poppy      Stocks 

"Pot  Merigold"          Larkspur  Poppies 

Everlasting  FlowersMigonette  California    Wild 

Candytuft  Winter  Sweet  Peas     Flowers 

Cosmos  Pansy 

Plant  all  kinds  of  Bulbs. 

Dutch  Bulbs  Narcissus  Etc.,  Etc. 

Hyacinths  Jonquils 

NOVEMBER  AND   DECEMBER 
Sow  same  as  for  October,  including  planting  of  Bulbs. 


Roses 


Roses  as  a  class  do  not  thrive  in  a  dry  climate, 
therefore  the  list  for  San  Diego  is  very  limited, — 
scarcely  a  dozen  varieties  in  bush  roses.  In  climbing 
roses,  five  or  six  varieties  and  you  have  the  list  of 
truly  desirable  climbers.  But  it  is  most  gratifying  to 
know  that  this  limited  number  serves  us  well. 

If  I  were  putting  in  a  private  garden  for  myself,  I 
would  confine  myself  to  the  following  list: 

General  McArthur  Kaiserine    Augusta    Vic- 
White  Cochet  toria 
Frau  Karl  Druschki  Pink  Cochet 
La  Detroit  Mm.  Able  Chatenay 
Cecil  Brunner 

Souver  de  Pierre  Netting  is  the  nearest  yellow  that 
I  would  give  garden  room  to.  Mrs.  A.  R.  Waddell,  a 
reddish  apricot  toned  with  salmon,  and  the  new  rose, 
Los  Angeles. 

This  list  with  ordinary  care  will  give  good  results. 

Budded  stock  is  much  more  desirable  than  those 
grown  on  their  own  roots,  the  bushes  will  be  stronger 
and  last  four  times  as  long.  In  climbers,  the  Climbing 
Cecil  Brunner,  Lamarque,  Reve  d'Or,  Mme.  A.  Car- 
riere,  Dorothy  Perkins,  (the  latter  named  being  sub- 
ject to  mildew)  and  Thousand  Beauties,  would  be 
my  limit  for  climbers.  White,  pink  and  red  Cherokees 
are  extra  good  for  hedges.  Rose  bushes  will  not  do 

8 


well  in  sandy  soil.  A  heavy,  loamy  soil,  well  en- 
riched with  horse  manue  is  the  best.  Where  the  soil 
is  light  and  sandy  use  cow  manure.  Dig  holes  at  least 
eighteen  inches  deep,  and  two  feet  across.  Prepare 
the  soil  and  treat  in  the  same  manner  as  for  fruit  trees. 
The  amount  of  manure  to  be  used  being  three  shovels- 
ful  to  each  hole  thoroughly  mixed  with  the  soil.  Rose 
bushes  should  be  spaced  at  least  three  feet  apart. 
Where  it  is  budded  stock,  plant  the  bud  at  least  two 
inches  under  ground. 

Your  nurseryman  will  show  you  the  bud  and  ex- 
plain it  to  you.  Also  have  him  prune  out  any  broken 
or  mutilated  roots.  He  should  also  prune  back  the 
roots  and  the  top  of  the  rose  bush,  removing  all  of 
the  small  twigs. 

In  planting,  lay  the  roots  in  the  hole  in  their  natural 
position,  fill  in  the  dirt  and  press  firmly  around  the 
bush  with  your  foot,  leave  a  space  around  your  rose 
bush  the  same  diameter  as  the  hole,  having  a  rim  of  dirt 
high  enough  to  let  the  water  run  slowly  to  the  depth 
of  four  inches,  when  the  water  has  soaked  into  the 
ground,  then  draw  the  loose  dirt  into  the  depression. 
This  mode  of  planting  applies  to  trees,  shrubs  and 
vines.  Weather  conditions  govern  how  often  to  irri- 
gate. 

When  trees  and  shrubs  have  no  leaves  on  them,  they 
require  but  little  moisture.  The  more  leaves  they  have 
the  more  moisture  they  require.  There  is  little  danger 
of  over  watering  rose  bushes  during  the  growing  sea- 
son, from  spring  to  early  fall  in  fact,  the  danger  lies 
the  other  way — they  do  not  get  enough.  I  get  my 
best  results  irrigating  once  a  week.  Do  the  irrigating 
in  the  forenoon,  also  wash  off  the  foliage  every  three 
or  four  weeks.  I  am  not  in  sympathy  with  resting 
rose  bushes  by  withholding  water  from  them  during 
July  and  August,  until  they  have  been  established  in 


the  ground  at  least  two  years.  I  have  seen  more  rose 
bushes  ruined  and  lost  by  withholding  water  from 
them  than  all  causes  put  together,  especially  if  the  soil 
is  not  as  heavy  as  it  should  be.  You  should  try  to 
arrange  to  do  your  planting  of  rose  bushes  during  the 
months  of  January,  February  and  the  fore  part  of 
March.  The  nurserymen  are  usually  prepared  to  fur- 
nish you  rose  stock  at  all  times,  having  them  in  boxes 
and  large  cans,  which  are  planted  out  at  any  time  of 
the  year,  causing  no  harm  to  or  setting  back  the 
bushes  in  their  growth. 

The  pruning  of  rose  bushes  should  be  done  during 
December  and  January.  In  the  list  of  rose  bushes 
that  I  have  named,  only  the  Frau  Karl  Druschki  should 
have  the  main  stocks  trimmed  back  severely,  as  it 
makes  a  growth  anywhere  from  six  to  twelve  feet 
high,  often  being  mistaken  for  a  climber.  It  should 
be  pruned  back  to  within  four  or  five  feet  of  the 
ground.  Prune  off  every  side  shoot  there  is  on  the 
main  stalks,  close  up  to  the  stalk,  cut  out  all  small  or 
stunted  stalks  and  the  ends  of  the  main  stalks  where 
they  start  to  get  small  at  the  ends.  Let  the  main 
stocks  be  absolutely  stripped  of  every  leaf  or  twig 
that  has  a  leaf.  Bear  this  fact  in  mind, — only  the 
new  growth  that  comes  from  the  main  stocks  produces 
rose  blooms. 

In  January  or  February  proceed  to  fertilize  with 
fresh  horse  manure  if  the  soil  is  heavy,  if  sandy  or  light 
use  cow  manure,  to  a  depth  of  four  or  five  inches.  (Do 
not  guess  it  but  measure.)  The  surface  of  the  ground 
to  be  covered  to  be  not  less  than  two  feet  in  all  direc- 
tions from  the  base  of  the  bush  and  farther  if  your 
bushes  are  large  and  the  root  system  extends  farther. 
After  the  manure  has  laid  four  or  five  weeks  and  the 
winter  rains  have  carried  much  of  the  strength  from 
the  fertilizer  to  the  roots,  spade  or  fork  it  all  under, 


10 


using  care  not  to  injure  or  tear  the  roots,  working  close 
to  the  surface  of  the  ground,  as  you  near  the  base  of 
the  bushes. 

To  employ  the  same  system  in  pruning  your  climb- 
ing rose  bushes  would  be  nothing  short  of  butchery 
and  ruin  for  them.  Those  fine  new  long  shoots  that 
come  out,  getting  in  everybodys  way  and  looking  so 
out  of  place  are  the  ones  to  be  saved.  In  climbing 
rose  bushes,  the  new  growth  of  this  year  gives  the 
great  profusion  of  bloom  next  season.  Save  them  by 
-all  means.  Cut  out  as  much  as  is  necessary  of  the  old 
part  of  the  vine  to  give  a  place  for  the  new  growth. 
Climbing  rose  bushes  that  are  planted  where  the  root 
system  reaches  the  lawn  need  no  special  care  or  at- 
tention after  once  getting  established. 


Dahlias 


No  flower  has  made  such  rapid  strides  and  come  into 
universal  favor  to  as  great  a  degree  as  the  Dahlia  has 
during  the  past  few  years.  Especially  is  this  true  on 
the  Pacific  Coast  where  climatic  conditions  are  ideal 
to  its  fullest  development  in  size  and  beauty. 

There  is  quite  a  list  of  varieties,  the  most  of  which 
the  general  public  has  as  yet  but  little  interest  in.  The 
three  varieties  that  are  in  universal  favor  are:  First, 
The  cactus  type,  the  petals  being  for  the  most  part 
narrow  and  quilled. 

The  decorative  type  which  has  broader  petals,  on 
the  order  of  large  rose  blooms. 

11 


Then  the  Peony,  or  Art  Dahlias  as  some  are  pleased 
to  designate  them.  These  as  a  rule  are  semi-double, 
petals  are  large,  broad  and  often  times  irregular, 
which  adds  more  than  it  takes  from  their  beauty. 

Dahlias  will  thrive  in  any  kind  of  soil,  providing 
they  have  proper  care.  They  give  the  best  results  in 
sandy  or  loose  soil  that  does  not  dry  down  hard  after 
watering.  The  heavier  the  soil,  the  more  work  and 
fertilizer  is  required.  Chemical  action  in  heavy  soils 
seems  to  take  up  fertilizer  much  more  rapidly  than  in 
lighter  soils. 

In  Southern  California,  Dahlias  can  be  planted  any 
time  from  March  to  July,  coming  into  bloom  in  from 
six  to  eight  weeks  after  planting.  They  do  quite  well 
in  partial  shade  but  full  sunlight  is  best. 

To  get  the  best  results  they  should  not  be  planted 
closer  than  three  feet  in  the  row  and  four  feet  between 
the  rows.  The  ground  should  have  a  covering  of  either 
cow  or  horse  manure  at  least  three  inches  deep, — the 
same  being  worked  into  the  ground  to  a  depth  of 
twelve  inches.  This  should  be  done  at  least  four  or 
five  weeks  before  planting  time, — using  care  that  none 
of  the  manure  comes  in  contact  with  the  Dahlia  tuber 
when  planting,  as  it  may  give  'them  the  scab,  an  in- 
fectious disease  to  be  avoided.  Do  not  stand  the  tuber 
on  end,  or  plant  in  a  vertical  position  but  almost  flat  or 
horizontal  with  the  neck  or  bud  end  a  little  higher. 
From  .the  top  of  the  tuber  to  the  top  of  the  ground 
when  the  tuber  has  been  covered,  it  should  be  four 
inches,  in  other  words,  the  tuber  should  be  planted 
four  inches  deep,  counting  from  the  top  of  the  tuber. 
Keep  the  ground  moist  but  not  wet  until  they  begin  to 
grow  nicely.  As  they  make  stock  and  foliage,  more 
moisture  is  required. 

When  the  buds  begin  to  mature,  the  irrigating,  fer- 
tilizing and  cultivating  begin  in  earnest.  After  irri- 

12 


gating  do  not  let  the  ground  dry  out  hard  at  any  time 
from  the  time  the  tuber  is  put  into  the  ground  until 
you  desire  to  have  them  stop  blooming.  In  heavy  soil, 
cultivation  usually  follows  on  the  second  day  after 
watering.  Use  a  three  or  five  prong  hand  cultivator. 
Having  planted  your  tubers  four  inches  deep,  you  can 
safely  cultivate  to  a  depth  of  two  inches. 

When  they  commence  to  bloom,  plant  food  is  taken 
up  very  fast.  Work  in  a  teacupful  of  bone  meal  to 
each  plant  about  once  in  every  six  or  eight  weeks.  If 
you  have  chickens,  make  liquid  manure  from  their 
droppings  and  apply  after  irrigating.  You  can  add 
along  with  it  a  tablespoonful  of  domestic  ammonia  to 
each  gallon  of  water  or  liquid.  Apply  from  one  to  two 
quarts  to  each  plant. 

Liquid  chicken,  sheep  or  goat  manure  is  very  strong 
and  must  be  well  diluted.  A  receptacle  filled  one- 
quarter  full  of  manure  and  then  filled  with  water, 
should  be  diluted  four  times  more  before  applying. 
It  should  be  made  up  24  to  48  hours  before  applying. 

I  rely  on  the  liquid  sheep  manure  and  the  ammonia, 
once  a  week  during  the  blooming  season.  I  irrigate 
every  five  to  six  days.  As  soil  conditions  vary  so, 
there  cannot  be  any  set  rules  in  these  things,  each 
and  every  one  having  to  work  out  these  problems 
from  their  own  experience  and  observations.  If  you 
do  not  care  to  cultivate  the  ground  the  entire  season, 
you  can,  when  the  Dahlias  begin  to  bloom,  mulch  with 
coarse  horse  manure  using  care  to  keep  the  manure 
at  least  two  inches  away  from  the  Dahlia  stock,  as  it 
would  harbor  aphis,  which  would  soon  destroy  the 
plant.  Dahlias  can  be  grown  to  a  very  large  size  by 
dis-budding,  only  allowing  a  few  blooms  to  the  plant. 
In  the  summer  time  when  the  days  are  long,  and  there 
are  no  fogs  it  is  of  great  benefit  to  the  Dahlias  to  give 
them  an  overhead  spraying  in  the  morning  before  the 

13 


sun  gets  hot.  The  water  will  not  harm  any  of  the 
bloom,  except  the  white  ones,  which  you  must  avoid 
getting  wet.  Do  not  do  this  in  foggy  weather,  as  it 
will  induce  mildew. 

At  the  least  sign  of  mildew,  give  a  dusting  of  dry 
sulphur,  which  will  check  the  mildew  at  once.  By 
keeping  the  blooms  cut  off,  and  not  allowing  them  to 
remain,  with  faithful  care  in  the  matter  of  fertilizing, 
water  and  cultivation,  they  can  be  kept  blooming  well 
into  November,  providing  weather  conditions  remain 
favorable. 

Do  not  withhold  water  from  them  altogether  when 
the  blooming  season  is  past.  Do  not  be  in  a  hurry  to 
have  the  tops  die  off.  When  the  tops  have  dried  off, 
do  not  cut  them  down  close  to  the  ground,  but  leave 
the  main  portion  of  the  main  stocks  on  until  you  go 
to  divide  the  tubers  in  the  spring.  The  stocks  are 
hollow  and  if  cut  close  to  the  ground,  the  water  from 
the  winter  rains  will  run  down  this  hollow  place  and 
often  cause  the  base  of  the  stock  to  rot  away,  some- 
times being  the  cause  of  losing  the  entire  clump.  This 
treatment  applies  to  a  frostless  climate. 

Where  they  have  frost  and  freezing  weather,  the 
Dahlias  are  taken  up  after  the  tops  have  been  killed 
by  the  frost,— the  tops  cut  back  to  ten  inches  above 
the  ground.  The  Dahlias  are  left  lying  on  the  top  of 
the  ground  for  a  day  or  so  to  dry  off.  Then  put  into 
a  cellar  or  a  similar  place  to  protect  them  from  freez- 
ing during  the  winter  and  replanted  in  the  spring, 
when  the  ground  has  warmed  up  and  all  danger  of 
frost  is  passed. 

Where  the  soil  is  sandy  and  has  good  drainage,  it 
is  all  right  to  leave  them  in  the  ground,  hilling  the 
soil  around  the  stocks  until  near  the  first  of  March, 
but  if  the  soil  is  the  kind  that  packs  down  hard  and 

14 


holds  water,  then  they  must  be  taken  up  before  the 
heavy  rains  begin. 

Prepare  a  place  where  it  is  shady  if  possible,  by 
digging  down  about  four  inches,  take  the  Dahlias  up 
with  all  the  soil  that  will  stick  to  them,  set  them  in 
this  place  that  you  have  prepared  and  put  dirt  all  over 
them  in  such  a  manner  that  the  water  from  the  rains 
will  drain  away  from  them. 

In  our  climate  they  need  a  little  moisture  all  the  time 
otherwise  they  dry  out  and  are  lost. 

If  you  have  never  grown  any  Dahlias,  you  will  do 
well  to  remember  the  following  instructions,  for  un- 
less you  are  informed  as  to  how  to  divide  your  Dahlia 
tubers  from  the  clump,  you  are  going  to  ruin  and  lose 
the  entire  lot. 

When  you  receive  your  Dahlia  tubers  from  the 
grower  in  the  spring,  by  looking  closely  you  will  see 
that  the  tuber  has  no  sprouts  coming  out  of  it,  but 
that  it  is  connected  by  what  is  known  as  a  neck  to  a 
piece  of  the  base  of  the  stock  which  grew  up  out  of 
the  ground  and  had  the  blooms  on.  Here  is  where  the 
eye  is  or  new  sprouts  come  from  that  push  up  through 
the  ground  and  make  the  new  plants.  All  new  growth 
comes  out  from  the  base  of  the  old  stock.  The  tubers 
are  feeders,  nothing  more,  and  if  broken  off  at  the 
base  of  the  stock  to  which  they  are  attached,  they 
produce  nothing  and  are  worthless. 

Before  dividing  your  Dahlia  tubers  it  is  best  to  wait 
until  the  buds  begin  to  show  up  a  little,  then  cut  in 
so  as  to  get  one  or  two  buds  that  will  be  attached  to 
one  or  two  tubers. 

When  you  are  ready  to  divide  your  Dahlias,  do  not 
shake  the  dirt  or  jar  it  from  off  your  Dahlia  clumps, 
but  remove  the  dirt  by  gently  digging  out,  or  turn  a 

15 


strong  stream  of  water  on  from  the  garden  hose  and 
wash  the  dirt  out.  It  will  be  well  to  procure  a  key- 
hole saw.  The  blade  is  very  narrow,  and  have  it  filed 
for  a  cut-off  saw.  The  hardware  dealer  will  explain. 
Saw  off  the  old  stock  close  down  to  the  tubers,  not 
below  any  buds.  Then  saw  down  through  the  center 
of  the  stock,  which  is  in  the  center  of  the  tubers.  If 
there  are  a  large  number  of  tubers  attached  to  the 
stock,  you  are  going  to  lose  some  of  them  for  there 
will  not  be  enough  of  the  stock  to  go  around.  After 
you  have  sawed  through,  then  you  can  finish  the  job 
with  a  sharp,  thin  bladed  knife, — something  a  little  bit 
stronger  than  a  potato  knife,  though  a  potato  knife 
does  very  well.  Make  a  clean  cut  right  straight 
through  with  either  saw  or  knife.  Under  no  circum- 
stances do  any  prying  for  that  bruises  the  wood  and 
causes  it  to  decay. 

The  key-hole  saw  that  I  have  referred  to  you  will 
find  to  be  one  of  the  best  instruments  you  ever  had 
for  a  general  purpose  tool  for  getting  into  narrow 
places  for  pruning  out  shrubs,  trees  and  vines.  It  far 
surpasses  the  best  pruning  saw  I  know  of. 

Notes :  The  best  time  to  put  stakes  at  your  Dahlias 
is  when  you  plant  the  tubers.  Drive  so  they  will  be 
on  the  east  side  of  the  plant.  As  the  stock  grow  up 
tie  them  with  a  soft,  but  strong  twine  (sacking  twine 
is  extra  good).  As  the  prevailing  winds  come  from 
the  West,  it  is  more  desirable  to  have  the  stakes  on 
the  East  side,  so  that  if  the  string  for  any  reason  should 
come  apart,  the  plant  will  rest  against  the  stake,  as 
it  would  not  do  if  the  stake  had  been  on  the  West 
side.  I  use  the  ordinary  lath,  sharpening  off  one  end, 
they  are  inexpensive  and  satisfactory. 

The  best  time  to  cut  the  bloom  is  in  the  cool  of  the 
morning,  followed  at  once  by  boiling  the  tip  ends  of 
the  stems  for  about  three  minutes,  which  greatly  aids 

16 


their  keeping   qualities.     Dahlias   cut   right   after   an 
irrigation  will  keep  but  a  short  time,  in  fact  not  at  all. 

Growing  Dahlias  from  seed.  Very  few  are  aware 
that  by  planting  dahlia  seed  in  March  they  will  be  in 
full  bloom  by  August. 

By  procuring  seed  from  growers  who  save  seed 
only  from  their  best  stock,  makes  it  possible  to  get 
some  very  fine  new  varieties.  It  is  highly  fascinating 
and  well  worth  the  effort. 

Seed 'from  cheap  and  common  stock  is  a  sure  waste 
of  time  and  effort.  Get  the  best  and  see  how  much 
pleasure  you  get  out  of  it. 


Sweet  Peas 

California  has  outstripped  the  world  in  the  growing 
of  sweet  peas.  In  seed  alone  the  growers  have  a  mar- 
ket far  exceeding  a  hundred  tons  a  year. 

The  early  or  fast  growing  type  known  as  the  winter, 
or  Christmas  Sweet  Peas,  seem  to  give  the  best  satis- 
faction. 

You  can  plant  as  early  as  August  but  if  the  weather 
should  be  unusually  dry  or  hot,  they  will  make  slow 
progress  until  the  rains  come.  They  like  rich  soil  that 
is  inclined  to  be  firm.  Where  the  soil  is  sandy  and 
loose,  work  in  rotted  cow  manure  that  has  been  spread 
on  the  ground  four  inches  deep. 


17 


As  you  sow  sweet  peas  in  rows,  it  is  not  necessary 
to  fertilize  over  a  large  space.  Twelve  to  sixteen 
inches  wide  is  sufficient  and  whatever  length  the  rows 
are  going  to  be.  They  should  have  a  sunny  situation 
and  the  rows  run  north  and  south. 

As  previously  stated,  if  the  soil,  is  of  a  loose  sandy 
nature  when  ready  for  planting  take  a  short  piece  of 
board, — say  two  feet  long  and  press  the  soil  down  by 
standing  on  the  board.  Then  let  the  water  run  slowly 
on  the  soil  until  it  is  thoroughly  wet,  after  which  sow 
the  seed  quite  thick  in  the  center  of  the  row.  Cover 
to  a  depth  of  about  one  inch  and  gently  press  down 
the  soil.  A  covering  of  fine  rotted  manure  to  the 
depth  of  y2-mch  would  be  good  and  help  retain  the 
moisture.  See  that  they  are  kept  moist  but  not  soak- 
ing wet.  When  the  new  shoots  are  coming  through 
the  ground,  look  out  for  insect  pests.  Do  not  wait  un- 
til your  sweet  peas  are  up  and  laying  over  on  the 
ground  before  fixing  something  for  them  to  climb  on. 
Do  it  at  the  time  of  planting. 


Pansies 


A  bed  of  these  delightful  and  care  dispelling  plants 
with  their  inexhaustible  supply  of  bright  colored 
blooms  is  one  of  the  most  desirable  to  have  for  winter 
and  spring  flowers.  Seed  can  be  sown  from  August 
to  January.  Shallow  boxes  should  be  used  not  more 
than  four  inches  deep.  See  that  the  box  is  not  water 
tight,  but  that  the  water  can  drain  through.  Use  good, 

18 


rich  soil  consisting  of  about  y%  rotted  manure,  Vs 
mould  and  %  good  garden  soil.  Press  the  dirt  down 
in  the  box,  then  thoroughly  soak  with  water.  To  press 
the  soil  down  and  make  a  nice  smooth  surface  use  a 
piece  of  board  or  something  of  that  nature,  then  after 
the  soil  has  taken  all  the  water  it  will  hold,  sow  your 
seed  and  cover  with  just  enough  fine  leaf  mould  or 
sand  so  that  you  cannot  see  any  trace  of  seed.  Press 
down  gently  with  your  piece  of  board. 

The  .water  you  have  put  in  the  soil  will  provide  all 
the  necessary  moisture  for  several  days  if  you  do  not 
allow  the  sun  and  wind  to  dry  them  out.  To  avoid  this 
condition  cover  with  piece  of  light  muslin,  burlap  or 
glass  that  has  been  white  washed,  (even  dust  sprinkled 
on  the  glass  will  do).  Anything  to  subdue  the  hot 
rays  of  the  sun  and  at  the  same  time  let  some  warmth 
on  the  soil. 

Have  the  box  raised  off  the  ground  so  that  insect 
pests  cannot  get  at  the  seed  or  plants. 

Under  no  circumstances  allow  the  seed  to  dry  out 
during  its  germinating  period  as  it  will  be  ruined. 
When  the  plants  show  six  or  eight  leaves,  plant  out 
in  beds  in  a  sunny  place,  not  shade,  where  the  soil  has 
had  a  top  dressing  of  well-rotted  manure  at  least  three 
inches  deep,  well  worked  into  the  soil  to  a  depth  of  six 
or  seven  inches.  Sugar  beet  lime  is  fine  to  add  to  the 
soil,  especially  is  it  so  in  regard  to  heavy,  sticky  soil. 
It  keeps  it  from  getting  sour  and  is  a  wonderful  help 
in  every  way.  It  should  be  sprinkled  on  the  soil  about 
}/2  to  1  inch  deep  and  also  worked  in.  Lime  should  be 
used  for  all  outdoor  planting  during  the  rainy  season. 

Pansy  beds  must  have  good  drainage.  Should  be 
two  or  three  inches  higher  than  the  walks  around 
them.  Set  the  plants  about  eight  inches  apart.  Never 
allow  them  to  suffer  for  water.  Do  not  keep  the  soil 

19 


soaked  but  moist.    Cultivate  the  soil  just  deep  enough 
to  keep  it  from  crusting  after  watering. 

A  mulch  of  rotted  manure  about  an  inch  thick  on 
the  surface  of  the  bed,  will  be  highly  beneficial. 

The  directions  for  sowing  pansy  seed  in  boxes  will 
apply  to  all  seeds  that  should  be  started  in  that  man- 
ner, such  as  Aster,  Dahlia,  Pentstemon,  Snap  Dragon, 
Salvia,  Zinnia,  Shasta  Daisy,  Verbenia,  etc. 

When  it  becomes  necessary  to  water  these  seed 
boxes,  it  is  best  to  set  the  box  in  a  tub  with  just  enough 
water  to  come  close  to  the  top  of  the  box,  as  it  sets  in 
the  water,  and  let  the  soil  in  the  box  take  it  up  from 
underneath  instead  of  the  top.  Do  not  allow  the  water 
to  come  up  above  the  surface  of  the  soil  in  the  box. 
Let  this  watering  be  done  in  the  morning.  When  the 
seed  begins  to  sprout,  keep  the  cloth  or  glass  at  least 
ten  inches  above  the  box  to  allow  a  free  circulation 
of  air  during  the  day. 

As  the  plants  grow  let  them  have  a  little  sunshine 
each  day,  increasing  the  length  of  time  a  little  every 
day  as  the  plans  grow  until  they  get  where  only  partial 
protection  is  needed. 

It  is  best  to  let  the  plants  have  the  morning  sun  be- 
fore the  wind  begins  to  blow. 

In  planting  seed  of  any  kind  in  the  open  ground, 
either  vegetable  or  flower,  if  done  during  the  dry  sea- 
son, the  ground  must  be  thoroughly  soaked  to  the 
depth  of  2  feet  or  more.  Fertilizer  thoroughly  worked 
in,  and  soaked  with  water  again  as  soon  as  it  is  dry 
enough  to  work  up  nicely.  iSow  the  various  seeds  ac- 
cording to  directions  given  on  the  seed  packets,  or 
by  the  dealer. 

Spread  sacking  over  the  seed  and  keep  moist  by 
sprinkling  water  on  the  sacking.  Remove  the  sack- 

20 


ing  as  soon  as  the  seed  has  sprouted  up  out  of  the 


ground. 


This  applies  to  dry  weather  planting.  During  the 
rainy  season,  when  there  is  moisture  in  the  air,  the 
sacking  can  be  dispensed  with,  unless  the  days  should 
happen  to  be  extra  warm  and  dry. 


Preparing  the  Soil  and  Planting  of 
Fruit  Trees 


Unless  the  soil  is  properly  prepared  in  advance  for 
the  planting  of  trees  and  shrubs,  for  your  flower  and 
vegetable  gardens,  your  efforts  will  come  to  naught. 
Soils  that  dry  out  hard  after  the  rains  or  irrigations, 
should  have  a  dressing  of  coarse  horse  manure,  and 
for  light,  sandy  soil  cow  manure  to  the  depth  of  four 
to  five  inches.  Turn  under  with  a  spading  fork,  then 
give  a  good  soaking  with  water,  when  sufficiently  dry 
so  it  works  up  nice  and  loose,  give  the  ground  another 
spading  over.  Then  take  a  vineyard  hook  or  a  potatoe 
digger  and  proceed  to  pulverize  the  soil  and  mix  in  the 
manure.  If  the  manure  is  fresh,  which  I  prefer,  plant- 
ing should  not  follow  under  three  or  four  weeks  after 
putting  the  manure  in  the  ground.  If  the  manure  is 
rotted  before  putting  into  the  soil,  planting  can  fol- 
low at  once. 

For  fruit  trees,  holes  as  a  rule  should  be  dug  at  least 
three  feet  in  diameter  and  three  feet  deep.  A  wheel- 
barrow load  of  manure  dumped  into  the  bottom  of 
each  hole  and  another  wheelbarrow  load  mixed  into 

21 


the  soil  that  goes  back  into  the  hole  is  a  good  rule 
to  go  by. 

Put  the  prepared  soil  back  into  the  holes  and  thor- 
oughly soak  with  water.  This  work  should  be  done 
three  or  four  weeks  before  tree  planting  time. 

Where  the  planting  is  done  in  heavy  soil  plant  all 
trees,  shrubs  and  vines  so  that  the  water  from  the 
winter  rains  will  drain  away  and  not  stand  or  settle 
around  them,  for  you  will  lose  them  if  this  condition 
is  allowed  to  prevail. 

January  and  February  are  the  best  months  to  plant 
bare  root  stock,  though  the  early  part  of  March  will  do. 


Plant  Pests  and  How  to  Get 
Rid  of  Them 


Ants:  Here  is  where  "a  stitch  in  time  saves  nine." 
During  the  rainy  season  is  a  good  time  to  locate  and 
exterminate  these  pests,  for  the  reason  that  the  rains 
make  it  easy  to  locate  them.  Whenever  a  hill  is  lo- 
cated dig  into  it  until  you  see  the  white  eggs  showing 
up.  Have  a  kettle  of  boiling  water  at  hand  and  pour 
it  in. 

If  they  get  to  working  at  the  roots  of  plants,  make 
up  the  following  solution  in  any  amount  or  proportion 
needed :  Shave  one  pound  of  Fish  Oil  soap  into  one 
gallon  of  water.  Add  one  pint  of  crude  carbolic  acid. 
Boil  for  about  twenty-five  minutes,  using  care  not  to 
let  it  boil  over.  Dilute  this  mixture  at  the  ratio  of 

22 


one  to  twenty  parts  of  water.  Use  freely  around  the 
roots.  It  can  be  poured  into  ant  hills  in  place  of  hot 
water.  It  will  not  injure  the  plants. 

Rose  Beetle:  Or  known  as  Elephant  bugs.  They  are 
a  hard-shelled  brown  beetle,  wingless,  about  ^-inch 
long,  with  a  raised  back  which  gives  them  a  slight  ap- 
pearance to  an'  elephant.  They  will  feed  on  almost 
anything  that  has  leaves.  Equal  parts  of  sulphur  and 
Paris  Green  dusted  over  the  foliage  makes  a  clean 
sweep  of  them.  Arsenate  of  lead  solution  is  also  rec- 
ommended. Use  about  two  teaspoonsful  of  the  pow- 
dered arsenate  of  lead  to  each  gallon  of  water.  Used 
as  a  spray. 

House  plants,  especially  ferns,  often  become  infected 
with  aphis  and  soft  scales.  A  cube  of  toilet  soap,  one 
inch  square,  dissolved  in  one  quart  of  water,  used  as  a 
spray  or  dashed  on  with  a  whisp  broom.  Wash  off 
with  fresh  water  after  twenty-four  hours. 

As  to  plant  lice,  or  aphis,  which  infest  the  new 
growth  of  rose  bushes,  there  are  concentrated  extracts 
of  tobacco  on  the  market  that  require  only  the  proper 
dilution  by  water  to  make  them  available  for  use. 
"Black  Leaf  40"  has  a  high  rating  as  a  nicotine  solu- 
tion. This  can  be  procured  at  any  of  the  seed  stores. 
Add  in  a  little  toilet  soap,  just  enough  to  make  the 
water  show  it  a  little. 

Western  Twelve-Spot  Cucumber  Beetle.  Its  color  is 
a  bright  green  with  black  spots.  The  State  Horti- 
cultural Commission  recommends  Arsenate  of  Lead. 
Slugs  and  Snails.  Where  the  plants  are  young  and 
tender,  use  four  ounces  of  powdered  Arsenate  of  Lead 
to  ten  gallons  of  water.  (Arsenate  of  Lead  is  put  up 
in  two  forms, — paste  and  powdered.)  The  powdered 
is  considered  preferable.  If  the  plants  or  foliage  is 
strong  and  well  developed,  use  six  ounces  to  tlm  eLum 

23 


of  water.    This  remedy  applies  to  all  leaf-eat- 
ing pests. 

Thrips.  They  are  so  small  that  they  are  classified  as 
mites,  and  make  their  appearance  in  dry  weather, 
working  on  the  underside  of  the  leaf,  which  become 
spotted  and  have  a  pale  grayish  color.  The  leaves 
finally  drop  off,  leaving  the  plant  or  shrub  bare.  Spray 
the  underside  of  the  leaves  with  tobacco  water.  Also 
fertilize  and  water  the  plants  freely.  Fuchsias  and 
Dahlias  are  especially  subject  to  them. 
Tree  Tanglefoot.  When  a  band  of  it  is  put  around  a 
tree,  shrub  or  plant,  no  insect  can  pass  it.  One  appli- 
cation will  remain  effective  for  three  months  in  any 
kind  of  weather.  Can  be  procured  at  any  seed  store. 
If  spread  on  places  where  birds  alight,  they  will  leave 
and  your  seed  beds  will  have  a  chance. 

To  keep  birds  out  of  fruit  trees,  run  a  pole  up 
through  the  tree  with  a  little  perch  nailed  to  the  top 
of  the  pole,  put  insect  tanglefoot  on  this  perch ;  also 
put  a  little  in  places  on  the  branches  of  the  trees. 
Mildew.  Lose  no  time  in  dusting  sulphur  on  the  af- 
fected parts.  It  is  one  of  the  worst  things  we  have  to 
contend  with  on  rose  bushes.  The  best  time  to  apply 
is  early  in  the  morning  when  the  foliage  is  damp  and 
there  is  no  wind  blowing. 

Scab  on  potato  or  dahlia  tubers.  It  is  advisable  be- 
fore planting  either  potatoes  or  dahlia  tubers  to  put 
them  into  a  solution  prepared  as  follows :  Two  fluid 
ounces  of  Formalin,  being  the  same  as  one-eighth  of 
a  pint  to  four  gallons  of  water.  Immerse  the  uncut 
potatoes  or  dahlia  tubers  for  two  hours,  take  them 
out  and  dry  off  a  little,  then  plant. 

Sow  Bugs  or  Slaters.  This  pest  feeds  upon  germinat- 
ing seeds,  tender  foliage,  buds,  fruits,  many  varities 

24 


of  roots  and  root  crops.  Raise  any  box,  board  or  any- 
thing that  they  can  get  under,  and  you  will  find  hun- 
dreds of  them.  I  have  seen  them  not  wait  for  the 
seed  of  vegetables  and  flowers  to  sprout  but  go  in  the 
ground  after  it.  Many  persons  have  wondered  why 
the  seed  never  came  up  which  they  planted.  In  most 
cases,  the  reason  can  be  traced  to  these  pests. 

Make  a  poison  bait  of  the  following,  which  will  not 
only  apply  to  Sow  bugs,  but  to  Slugs,  Snails  and  Cut 
Worms  also. 

Bran  6  pounds 

Paris  Green    l/%   pound 

Molasses  ^  pint 

Thoroughly  mix,  adding  sufficient  water  to  make  it 
moist  but  not  sticky  and  scatter  around  where  you 
find  them  the  most  numerous. 

Scale  on  Orange,  Lemon  and  Grapefruit  trees.  If 
your  trees  are  infested  with  scale,  consult  the  County 
Horticultural  Commission,  who  will  inspect  the  trees 
and  inform  you  when  and  the  best  way  to  handle  them. 

Any  disease  making  its  appearance  on  trees,  shrubs 
or  plants,  any  insect  pest  that  you  do  not  recognize  or 
know  how  to  combat,  lose  no  time  to  inform  the  Horti- 
cultural Commissioner  about  it. 


25 


Odds  and  Ends 


If  you  keep  chickens  or  rabbits,  when  dressing  them 
do  not  waste  the  blood,  but  save  it,  add  about  thirty 
times  as  much  water  and  pour  liberally  about  once  a 
month  into  your  hanging  baskets,  potted  ferns,  be- 
gonias, etc.  It  works  wonders  with  all  plants  in  the 
open  ground  as  well. 

A  little  bone  meal  sprinkled  into  the  potted  plants 
and  scratched  into  the  soil  in  the  spring  time  is  extra 
good. 

A  tablespoonful  of  domestic  ammonia  to  a  gallon  of 
water  is  good  for  plants  of  all  kinds.  Use  liberally 
right  after  watering. 

Asparagus  Springeri  in  hanging  baskets  or  in  pots 
after  a  season  or  so  crowd  themselves  out  so  that  it  is 
advisable  to  pry  them  out,  take  a  hatchet  and  cut  away 
a  large  portion  of  the  outside  of  the  root  system,  and 
replant  in  new  soil  in  which  bone  meal  at  a  ratio  of  a 
handful  to  a  bucketful  of  soil  has  been  thoroughly 
mixed.  This  should  be  done  in  the  early  spring  time. 
Any  good  fertilizer  will  do,  if  bone  meal  is  not  at  hand. 

Under  no  circumstances  plant  Eucalyptus  trees  on 
a  city  lot.  Nothing  else  can  grow  under  or  near  them. 

26 


Fig  trees  have  no  tap  roots,  but  have  many  little 
fiberous  roots  that  work  close  to  the  surface  of  the 
ground.  Never  allow  the  ground  to  dry  out  from  the 
spring  time  until  the  crop  has  been  gathered. 

During  the  winter  time  put  on  some  fertilizer  and 
spade  under.  A  good  thing  to  do  to  all  of  your  trees. 
This  should  be  done  as  far  out,  if  not  farther,  than  the 
spread  of  the  branches. 

Do  not  leave  horse  or  cow  manure  out  in  an  exposed 
condition  to  the  wind  and  sun  for  any  length  of  time 
as  it  will  deteriorate  very  rapidly. 

Fertilizers  of  any  kind  after  being  incorporated  into 
the  soil,  three  or  four  months  have  lost  the  major  por- 
tion of  their  fertilizing  value  through  chemical  action, 
especially  is  this  so  of  horse  and  cow  manure.  Fast 
growing  plants  take  up  fertilizer  very  rapidly. 

One  of  the  best  habits  to  acquire  is  never  attempt  to 
sow  or  plant  anything  without  first  fertilizing  the  soil, 
which  does  not  mean  to  throw  it  on  the  ground  in  any 
old  way,  but  work  it  into  the  ground  thoroughly. 

Orange  and  Grapefruit  trees  often  when  young  and 
just  coming  into  bearing  will  drop  their  fruit,  just 
after  it  is  nicely  started.  This  is  invariably  caused  by 
over-watering.  Never  water  citrus  trees  until  the 
ground  becomes  dry,  not  only  on  top  but  ten  or  twelve 
inches  deep. 

Lawns  if  not  faithfully  cared  for  are  soon  crowded 
out  by  other  growths  that  are  in  no  wise  desirable. 
Early  in  the  spring  I  prefer  a  good  commercial  fertil- 
izer, of  which  there  are  several  on  the  market.  Then 
in  June  a  dressing  of  sifted  cow  manure  is  extra  good, 
though  you  run  the  risk  of  introducing  weed  pests 
that  you  cannot  get  rid  of  easily. 

27 


Some  lawns  pack  down  so  hard  that  jabbing  a  spad- 
ing fork  in  the  lawn  when  moist  and  prying  a  little 
loosens  the  soil  so  that  water  and  air  get  down  into 
the  ground  better. 

Lime  water  should  be  given  all  potted  plants  at  least 
once  a  month.  It  sweetens  the  soil  and  destroys  in- 
jurious insects  that  may  be  in  the  soil.  This  also  ap- 
plies to  plants,  shrubs,  etc.,  in  the  open  ground.  It  is 
easily  prepared  by  filling  an  old  keg,  tub,  bucket  or  any 
thing  suitable  about  one-fifth  or  sixth  full  of  lime  and 
filling  up  with  water,  letting  it  stand  for  two  or  three 
days  before  using. 

Hydrangeas  when  they  begin  to  push  out  their  new 
growth  in  the  spring  time  should  have  a  heavy  fer- 
tilizing of  some  kind,  it  means  large  blooms. 

When  you  wish  the  color  of  the  blooms  to  be  purple, 
bury  some  pieces  of  old  iron  around  the  roots. 

Do  not  waste  the  grass  from  the  lawn,  weeds,  leaves 
from  shrubs  or  trees,  vegetable  tops,  everything  of  this 
nature  should  be  dumped  into  a  hole  in  an  out  of  the 
way  place  and  kept  wet.  In  the  Spring  time  you  will 
find  the  finest  leaf  mould  for  your  ferns,  begonias,  and 
seed  boxes.  Do  not  dump  the  dish  water  into  the  sink 
but  pour  it  around  your  rose  bushes,  trees,  shrubs  and 
flowering  plants.  Do  not  do  it  when  things  are  not  in 
need  of  moisture. 

Bury  the  garbage  around  in  the  garden,  it  is  needed 
there. 

In  sowing  fine  seed  in  shallow  boxes  or  open  ground 
it  is  important  that  in  covering  the  seed  the  soil  should 
be  fine  and  evenly  spread  on.  This  is  highly  import- 
ant. And  a  good  way  to  do  is  to  get  a  small,  shallow 
box, — something  you  can  easily  hold  in  one  hand. 

28 


Knock  the  bottom  out  of  it  and  put  window  screen  on 
in  place.  This  enables  you  to  dust .  it  on  all  right. 
These  boxes  can  be  had  from  your  grocer. 

The  hole  in  which  you  dump  your  grass,  weeds, 
leaves,  etc.,  owing  to  the  moisture  will  be  a  favorite 
place  for  snails,  slugs,  sow  bugs  and  other  garden 
pests,  in  fact  it  will  be  headquarters  for  them. 

An  excellent  opportunity  for  you  to  make  way  with 
them  by  the  use  of  the  insecticides  mentioned  else- 
where. 

Sprinkling  should  be  resorted  to  for  lawns,  seed 
beds,  ferns  and  begonias.  Ferns  and  begonias  grow 
their  roots  near  the  surface  and  should  have  a  mulch- 
ing of  leaf  mould  two  inches  deep  every  spring. 

With  all  deep  rooting  plants,  trees  and  shrubs, 
sprinkling  should  never  be  resorted  to  except  to  wash 
off,  the  foliage  once  in  three  or  four  weeks.  The  hose 
should  be  laid  on  the  ground  and  the  water  run  slowly 
until  the  soil  has  taken  all  it  will  absorb.  Then  don't 
forget  to  cultivate. 

Coprosma,  a  shiny  leaf  shrub  so  extensively  used  in 
front  of  residences,  should  have  the  tip  ends  of  the 
new  growth  kept  pinched  off.  It  makes  the  growth 
compact  and  keeps  it  from  growing  coarse  and  un- 
sightly. 

There  is  but  one  way  to  find  out  when  trees,  plants 
and  shrubs  need  water.  Go  around  with  the  hoe  every 
day  or  so  and  dig  down  three  or  four  inches. 

Eternal  vigilance  in  fertilizing,  irrigating  and  culti- 
vating during  the  growing  and  dry  time  of  the  year 
spell  success.  Don't  forget  it. 


29 


Blood  meal  is  extra  good  for  flowering  plants  of  all 
kinds.  It  gives  a  beautiful  rich  green  to  the  foliage, 
and  adds  to  the  color  and  beauty  of  the  blooms. 

For  a  Dahlia  that  is  budding  for  bloom,  sprinkle  a 
handful  on  the  surface  of  the  ground  around  the  plant 
as  far  out  as  the  roots  go  and  stir  into  the  soil. 

The  same  amount  for  rose  bushes  and  other  plants 
according  to  their  size.  Repeat  as  their  needs  may  in- 
dicate. 


Dahlias 

No  expense  has  been  spared 
to  assemble  one  of  the  finest 
and  mo&  up  -  to  -  date  Blue 
Ribbon  collection  of  Dahlias 
in  the  United  States.  :  :  :  : 

A  look  through  my  1919 
catalogue,  which  will  be  mail- 
ed to  any  address  on  applica- 
tion, will  convince  you  :  :  : 

SIES   DAHLIA  GARDENS 

3378  Granada  Street,  -  San  Diego,  California 
Phone,  Hillcrest  2020.  H.  E.  Sies,  Proprietor 


30 


Remember  the  Bird. 

USE 


THE  TRUE 

AGRICULTURAL 

UME 

FERTILIZER  PLANT  FOODS 

Prepared  by  Specialists  for  Your   Particular  Needs 
Produces  Beautiful  Roses,  Flowers  and  Lawns 

— Let  us  Advise   and  Help    You — 


The  Pacific  Guano  &  Fertilizer  Co. 

Both  Phones  Lime  ROBT.  H.  WINN 

2107  Manure  Sales  Agent 

I  L I  Fertilizers        5 1 1  -533  7th  St.,  San  Diego 


GET  SEEDS  THAT  GROW 

FROM 

SELEY'S  SEED  STORE 

644  E  Street      :      :      :      Between  6th  and  7th 


Roses,  Palms  and  Pacific  Phone 

Ornamental  Plants  Hill.  350- w-i 

Mission  Valley  Nursery 

E.  BENARD,  Proprietor 

R.  F.  D.  No.  2  Mission  Valley 

Box  156  San  Diego,  Cal. 

31 


Pierce -Field  Hardware  Co.,  Inc. 
Everything  in  Garden  Tools 

The  Famous  Vineyard  Hook,  Garden  Plows,  Irriga- 
tion Apparatus,  Wheelbarrows,  Rubber  Hose 
of  the  f  size,  the  happy  medium  in  hose. 

A.  B.  CHRISTOPHER 

2928  29th  St.  COW  MANURE  Hillcrest  1298 

DIRT  AND  SAND 
Also  put  in  Lawns  and  Landscape  Gardening 

J.  W.  GROVE 

3216  TEAMING  OF  ALL  KINDS  Phone 

I  Street          HORSE  MANURE  AND  DIRT     Main  1703 

S.  A.  HEMPHILL 

4021  32d  Street 

GENERAL  GARDENING,    HORSE  and  COW  MANURE 
Putting  in  New  Lawns  a  Specialty 

R.  E.  KERR 

2176  HORSE  AND  COW  MANURE  Main 

Franklin  St.      Pine  Shavings  and  Saw  Dust  5683-R 

J.  F.  RICKEY 

COW  MANURE  DAIRY  Telephone, 

FOR  SALE  — —          Hillcrest  315-W-2 

T.  B.  PENICK  Phoncs 

3075  L  St.    HORSE  AND  COW  MANURE     Main  4582 
GRAVEL,   SAND   AND   SOIL     Home  1488 

32 


AS  INITIAL  PINE  Or  25  CENTS 

OVERDUE. 


GENERAL  LIBRARY  -  U.C.  BERKELEY 


BODQVIMVIQ 


395100 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


